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"Many harsh chemicals that are used in structural changes for the hair will actually negatively impact the scalp and in some cases cause a chemically induced minor shed," Gaunitz says.
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That's why, salon-grade protein treatments, which contain much more potent chemicals, are only accessible to licensed professionals, and not recommended for at-home use.
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However, applying too frequently, especially when not at the hands of a professional can have adverse effects. Sounds like protein treatments are a quick fix, right? If used correctly, they can be.
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"It's made to help relax the cuticle, which in turn makes curls more tamable," says Wright. Curly and more textured hair can benefit not only from the hydration that keratin offers but also for increasing manageability. And according to hairstylist Kiyah Wright, natural hair, being more vulnerable to dryness and breakage, is in even bigger need of consistent protein treatments. "Keratin is also used to fill in the gaps of protein in the hair, which helps give it a fuller, 'healthier' look," says Petrillo. "If you tend to use a curling iron, blow dryer, or flat iron most days of the week, that's another reason to protein treat your hair," she says.ĭavid Petrillo, chemist and founder of skin-care brand, Perfect Image also says that people typically use keratin treatments to smoothen and straighten their hair in a way that is weather-proof and more manageable. Parks also suggests an increased repair for those with an affinity for heat tools. Additionally, "heat products and sun exposure are two of the biggest contributors to hair damage," says Morgan Parks, senior stylist at NineZeroOne Salon in Hollywood, California. Due to their potency, protein treatments have proven incredibly beneficial to damaged or chemically treated hair.
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If you've been leaning into at-home hair dyeing, you should definitely keep reading. "Since it is a coating, it's not really improving your hair structure, it is a temporary fix." Depending on how you treat your hair this can be anywhere from three to six months. Over time the keratin wears away and your hair goes back to its original form," says Chiu. "This seals the cuticle and makes hair smooth and shiny and less frizzy. Keratin treatments work by smoothing down the cuticle. Keratin can become deformed with water vapor, it can also be affected by dietary deficiencies which can lead to structural defects in the hair shaft," Chiu explains. Keratin is found in the cortex and is composed of 18 amino acids. "The cuticle is the outside wall of hair and is the first part that becomes damaged when hair is mistreated. "Hair is made up of water, keratin, lipids, minerals, and pigments and divided into three parts, the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla," says Annie Chiu, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Derm Institute. Let's look deeper at the composition of hair to better understand how protein treatments work. Often also referred to as a keratin treatment, the most well-known form of protein that already exists in healthy hair, the treatment strengthens the outermost layer of the hair cuticle by incorporating hydrolyzed proteins, which are proteins comprised of amino acids and peptides. "A protein treatment is a chemical process for your hair that reinforces the exterior structure to improve texture, strength, and appearance of the hair," says William Gaunitz, WTS, certified trichologist and founder of the Gaunitz Trichology Methods. While protein treatments are a great option for hair fortifying, they're also complex, and not to be approached without caution. The good news is that getting back to voluminous, shiny, and moisturized hair is as easy as a good at-home protein treatment - no matter what your hair type or texture. With much bigger things top of mind at the moment, keeping our hair healthy may be a priority that's fallen by the wayside.